Walter Bonatti

WALTER BONATTIFoto de: http://www.gmlira.com/

T. (Italia, 1930). Uno de los personajes claves, sin lugar a dudas, de la historia del alpinismo. Nace en Bérgamo (22-6-1930). El Pilar SO del Dru se llama Pilar Bonatti a raíz de su apertura en solitario en 1955 tras 126 horas y 7 minutos con 5 vivacs. Tiene una ruta en cada una de las caras más salvajes del macizo de Mont Blanc (Angle, Frêney, Brouillard, Dru y Jorasses). Se le critica y envidia a menudo en su carrera: escándalos de Vicendon y Henry, en el K2 y en el intento al Frêney. Dijo que «la montaña debe dar el valor del hombre que se mida con ella». Contra el buril, añade: «Está destruyendo una preciosa fuente de energía que siempre ha estado en la base de toda conquista humana: la fascinación por lo imposible». A los 18 años realiza su primera escalada, en el Campaniletto de la Grigna, y saca el título de guía en 1954. Algunos de sus logros más relevantes son los siguientes:

1949: con Andrea Oggioni y Emilio Villa abre la cara SO de la Aiguille Noire de Peutérey.
Días después, los tres con un amigo más hacen la Walker, tras un intento ese verano con
Camillo Barzaghi por la entrada original.Repite con Barzaghi la Cassin del Badile.

1951: apertura en la este del Grand Capucin (350 m, MD sup., V+/A1 o EX 7b) con
Luciano Ghigo, 20/23-7.En 1950 fracasa con C. Barzaghi y luego con Ghigo, abandonando
a 120 m de cumbre tras cuatro días.

1953: invernales en las caras norte de la Cima Ovest y Cima Grande di Lavaredo con
Carlo Mauri.

1954: participa en la expedición italiana al K2 que logra la primera, aunque él no
hace cumbre. Polémica a causadel vivac que pasa con un hunza a 8.000 m a escasa
distancia de la tienda de la cordada de ataque a cima.

1955: abre el pilar SO del Petit Dru (600 m, MD sup., V+/A1) en solitario (17/22-8),
una de los logros más remarcables de la historia del alpinismo, según un comentarista
de la época.

1956: tragedia con François Henry y Jean Vincendon tras hacer la tercera invernal a
la Brenva junto a Silvano Gheser, atrapados por el mal tiempo en el Grand Plateau
durante su descenso a Chamonix. Tras unirse a ellos, los italianos descienden. Luego
se les acusa de abandonarlos, ya que la cordada franco-belga perece tras diversos
intentos de rescate salpicados de errores y retrasos. Polémica reflejada y mantenida
enNaufrague au Mont Blanc, de Yves Ballu.

1957: Bonatti-Gobbi en la este del Angle (900 m, MD sup./ED, V+) con T. Gobbi, 1/3-8.

1958: intento al Cerro Torre con Carlo Mauri y hace la primera al Cerro Mariano Moreno
(3.536 m) y la travesía completa de las cinco cumbres del Cerro Adela. Cima del
Gasherbrum IV con Carlo Mauri en la expedición de Cassin*.

1959: Suroeste al Petite Mont Gruetta (600 m, D inf.) con B. Ferrario y Andrea Oggioni,
junio. Pilier Rouge du Brouillard al Mont Blanc (700 m, ED) con Oggioni en julio, cuatro
días después de su abandono a 100 m de la cima de este pilar que nace a 4.000 metros
(relevó a su vía del Angle como «la más difícil de los Alpes Occidentales» ). Bonatti a
la SE del Mont Maudit (650 m, TD, V+) con Roberto Gallieni y Oggioni, agosto.
Espolón oriental al Mont Maudit (650 m, MD inf.) con E. Ferrario y Oggioni, septiembre.
Primera solitaria a La major al Mont Blanc.

1961: primera invernal a La sentinelle rouge (D sup.) de la Brenva con G. Panei. Trágico
intento en el Pilar del Frêney, del que sólo sobreviven tres (Gallieni, Mazeaud y él) de
un total de siete alpinistas de primera fila.Bonatti-Zapelli, o Directa a la vertiente de
Frêney del Mont Blanc (850 m, MD, III-D+) con Cosimo Zapelli, septiembre. En Andes,
consigue las primeras siguientes: Nevado Ninashanca (5.639 m), Cerro Parin Norte(5.166 m)
y Rondoy Norte (5.821 m).

1962: Bonatti-Zapelli al Grand Pilier d'Angle del Mont Blanc (900 m, ED, V-4) con
Cosimo Zappelli, 22/23-6.No confundirla con la de igual nombre al Frêney ni con la
Bonatti-Zapellidel año siguiente o la Bonatti-Gobbi ambas al Angle; de nuevo considerada
la «más difícil del macizo» (primera invernal por René Chéré y D. Monaci, 1975). Este de
las Petites Jorasses (450 m, MD sup.) con Pierre Mazeaud, 11-7.

1963: primera invernal a la Walker de las Jorasses con Zapelli, 25/30-1.
Bonatti-Zapelli al Gran Pilier d'Angle(350 m, MD), 11/12-10-1963.

1964: Bonatti-Vaucher una ruta nueva al espolón Whymper de las Jorasses
(ED sup. 80º, V+/A3) con Michel Vaucher, agosto (primera solitaria por S. Sveticic, 1990).

1965: apertura de nueva vía en solitario y en invierno a la cara norte del Cervino

Desde entonces, acepta la oferta del semanario Epoca para realizar reportajes por el mundo, tarea a la que se dedica durante más de 30 años, ofreciendo a los lectores, con su pluma y su
cámara de fotos, la visión inédita de numerosos rincones del planeta: Sumatra, Antártida,
Atacama, Alaska, Orinoco, Australia, Cabo de Hornos, etc. También se apasiona por las actividades subacuáticas.

En Val Ferret desde 1998 un refugio lleva su nombre, el único refugio italiano bautizado con el nombre de una persona viva, salvo el de la Capanna Margherita, también abierto en vida de la reina. Es miembro de honor de la UIAA. Bajo el título Detener la emoción, el universo fotográfico de Walter Bonatti, el Museo Nazionale della Montagna de Torino organiza en 1998 una antológica de los reportajes para la revista Epoca en sus viajes por todo el mundo. Autor de Le mie montagne (1961), I giorni grandi (1971), La mia Patagonia (1986), Un modo di essere (1989), Montañas de una vida (1995), Il caso K2, 40 anni dopo (1995), Adieu Amazonie, Magie du Mont Blanc, etc.

Información de: http://desnivel.com/enciclopedia/index.php/Bonatti,_Walter

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