Juanito Oiarzabal


Foto de: http://www.elpais.com

Juanito Oiarzábal nació en Vitoria-Gasteiz el 30 de marzo de 1956. Cursó sus estudios en la Escuela Profesional Jesús Obrero de Vitoria-Gasteiz y comenzó a trabajar en una empresa de montajes eléctricos.

Aficionado al deporte, practicó la gimnasia deportiva durante algún tiempo. También practicó la espeleología, pero por la influencia de su padre y unos amigos se inició en el montañismo. Pronto empezó a destacar por sus facultades físicas que le llevaron a realizar ascensiones cada vez más difíciles en todos los terrenos.

A los 24 años se independizó laboralmente, montando un pequeño negocio. Esta "independencia" le proporcionó más facilidades para compaginar el trabajo con su afición: el montañismo.

Sus éxitos en el Himalaya son bien conocidos, pero lo que solamente conocen los más entendidos es que antes de comenzar por esos derroteros, ya tenía acumulado un historial entre los mejores de Euskadi. Todo esto, antes de iniciar su carrera ochomilista, ya que a partir de ese momento pasa a la élite mundial.

Oiarzabal ha realizado ascensiones en todos los macizos españoles por las rutas más difíciles. Tiene incluso en su haber algunas rutas inéditas de gran relevancia. Si hablamos de los Alpes, que son la referencia del montañismo más exigente, -y de ahí la denominación genérica de alpinismo-, Juanito Oiarzabal cuenta con las ascensiones más reconocidas por su gran dificultad.

Ha escalado en continentes como América del Norte, América del Sur y África. Es en el Himalaya donde se desenvuelve con mayor soltura ya que ha realizado 35 expediciones a lo largo de 23 años.

Es record mundial absoluto de ascensiones a ochomiles, con 22 cimas, y es el sexto hombre que logra alcanzar las 14 cimas de más de ocho mil metros y, a su vez, el cuarto que lo ha logrado sin el uso de oxígeno artificial.

Ha realizado 16 montajes audiovisuales que han servido para promocionar didácticamente el montañismo por la provincia y por todo el estado, prestigiando este deporte a todos los niveles y, por supuesto, llevando bien alto el nombre de Vitoria-Gasteiz y de Alava. Con TVE filmó para el programa 'Al filo de lo imposible' su ascensión al Annapurna. Ha grabado también muchos capítulos como el que realizó en el Everest, recreando la historia de Mallory e Irving que desaparecieron en el año 1924 cuando intentaban el ataque a la cumbre.

Informacion de: http://www.juanitooiarzabal.com/

Foto de: http://www.elperiodico.com/

Foto de: http://www.elconfidencial.com/

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